Mk1 uno turbo blue reshell

Now for yet another spanner in the works, I have just brought yet another uno!

This time it’s the blue 45 of ebay…

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250812210846&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

The sale add was a bit optimistic with no dents scratches etc but to be fair the owner was foreign and he did not speak english well tbh, and i could see all that with my own eyes anyhow and for a 23 year old car it aint bad at all to be fair.

There was also a couple of other bits that are not great, like some tiny rust bubbles on the bottom of the drivers door,the door is still 100% solid along the bottom,more cosmetic really and can be easyly sorted i should think.

It also had a bit of surface rust on a floor drain hole and a bit of rust on the rear bumper middle mounting point in the boot well.

I was 50/50 on weather to buy it tbh, but overall it looks pretty good for an old uno and after welding mine up and seeing how solid this one was I could not resist!

The seller originally wanted £1000 which is way to much tbh and even after 30-40mins of haggling and him comfirming with his wife l I could only get him down to £750.

I umed and arghed and though **** it I will take a gamble,proberly over priced really at £750 for what it is but its more than worth it to me tbh.

Then the strip down begins ….

I would like to say all is pefect and rosey here, but as most will now an uno is always a bit of a gamble until you start to strip it down.

On the rust front the rear turrets are in need of minor attention,even though I banged and proded them when I was looking and all seemed well they are just starting to go off.

The trouble is the buggers are fully hidden when you go to look at the car and you cant just start ripping it to bits in front of the owner

On the whole for rust that’s about it, except for the middle bumper mount as mentioned above and some small surface rust here and there.

Its not really a problem as so far the rest of the car seems in good shape thank god ,and after going through what I have with the other uno it should be an easy fix.

The other small cause for concern is i think it has proberly had a complete rear quater on it at some point,and a bit of paint here and there .

It hpi-ed all clear though. and tbh its a faultless job if it has been changed,which i proberly think it has,and was proberly done early on in its life.

The only way i found out is when i removed the inside rear quater card and its a different colour than the other side .

I have spent over an hour looking how its been done and where its been joined etc and it looks perfect,but there are some small tell tale signs of where its been painted in the past and possibly where its been joined to the outer sill,its so hard to tell tbh.

Way beyoned my bodywork skills this job as it looks completely normal to look at,even from inside the panel.

I am making the car sound a lot worse than it really is tbh and with a bit of tlc and some rust profing measures i think it will be good to go for a fair while yet 8-) .

But overall i am pretty happy with the new tin box .

I am also going to to pass all the blame onto romeo68 and his uno for this rash purchase, and also for him pointing it out to me although I was already on the case :mrgreen:

I may just smoke about in it for a while as a 999cc, until i get the other one a bit more sorted.

The 4 speed gear box and 1 speed heater fan makes me chuckle every time i get in it .

I have just about got enough parts to do both cars, just unsure as what parts to use where atm,and what direction to take with them both.

The blue one will stay blue as its in very good shape, just unsure if to use all the best bits on it or save them for the white car.

Heres some piccys…
















lol



Just a quick update,but not much has really happened tbh.

While I had all the interior out of the blue 45 I have given the sills a quick waxoilling with some bilt hammber dynax s50 stuff.

Pretty good stuff this and is priced inbetween waxoil and that dintrol stuff.

Not used the dintrol but the dynax seems a way lot better than hammerite waxoil,seems to flow a lot better and it also gets good reviews.

I will hit it hard with the dynax when I fully strip it ready for the turbo lump.

I have also found a bit of filler in the blue 45's door

Same side as where the rear quater has been replaced,so its had a tap at somepoint in its life

Had the door card off and its not dented badly,but its distorted the line through the middle of the door.

God knows how i missed it tbh as its blatant now i know its there but i was more on a rust finding mission when i went to look at it instead of looking for bodywork damage.

Bit of a ****er really, but if i cant live with it i will sort it if/when i spray up a mk1 turbo boot for it.

Just trying to get myself all planned out now, as tbh i am really unsure of what direction to go with it all atm.

One of the cars will have to go with a bottom change box, repaired looms, and ropey interior, while the other will get the best bits.

I am still attached to the white uno as its a far better colour imo, and the time i have spent on it and also knowing every inch of it slightly sways me towards that one.

But then the blue one has the better body work (especially the roof) and would be far quicker for me to get running in turbo form,but would need me to steal parts off the white one (like the subframes etc) if I want to get it done quickly, and I am not keen on doing this tbh.

Its just good to be back in an uno tbh, even though it is in 45bhp 4speed form!

The tinny-ness and the fearing for your life feeling you get just brings the memorys flooding back 8-) .

The thing just cracks me up, and feels like I am racing every car on the road, when in fact I am just trying to keep up with traffic :humhihi !

Apart from the ridiculas amount of road noise from the 145/80’s it aint as bad to drive around in as I thought it would be tbh.

Its quite nice to cruise around, as long as you are doing under 40,but when speeds reach 60 odd you really have to start consentrating, especially on the twistys with the 145’s and stock suspension,I never thought 60 could feel so fast .

It feels surprisingly firm for stock suspension and very darty,and the steering feel is pretty good and sort of makes you think you can take that corner with speed and precision, that’s until you attempt it, and then find yourself falling off the seat with the car lurching right over understeering towards the hedge .

The brakes are also surprisingly good, the only downfull is the stock suspension and the amount of nose dive and the light **** squirmimg action in heavy brake situations that makes you feel like you are going to spin unless you keep it perfectly straight .

Still,happy days atm really, just loads of decisions to make which is kind of pissing me off a bit where I am unsure of what to do.

I may just prep some other subframes,use the repaired looms and bottom change box on the blue one and run the rebuilt engine in it for a bit aswell to make sure it runs ok.

Then theres the interior, god knows I may do the blue one with all the good bits then swap it all over to the white one if it turns out alright,as its not a major job really.

I am also considering spraying the white car myself now, so I may completely balls that up yet so who knows.

Well for my own safety i have had to rice up the 45

The nose diving on the brakes and the ****ty 145's just had to go,even though i feel a complete penis driving about in it riced up with the 999cc engine :haha

I have used some rear adjustable spax shocks that came of that grey uno with spax -35mm springs,i did try some 60mm springs but it was sitting about a mm of the bumpstops so i scraped that idea lol.

On the front i have used some spare monroe shocks that where laying about and some 60mm springs,i just could not get it to sit low enough with the 35mm springs so am using the 60's for the time being, and it still only just looks low enough on the front.

I am hopeing that when i put the turbo lump in i will be able to go back to the 35mm springs,as it just dont sit right because of the lighter 999cc engine.

I would not recommend using the 60's on stock shocks tbh as the spring dislocates from the shock by a vast amount when jacked up,which is pretty dodgy really and an mot fail.

I have also put the 14inch mo's on the thing, as like mention the 145's where just dangerous,plus the road noise they were making was ridiculas inside the car.

Overall the thing feels a lot safer to drive now, although a little stiff.
But atleast i can now use the brakes with out nose diving and squirming about,it also stops alot quicker with the wider rubber.
And once i tracked it up the handling was obviosly a lot better than before,i just need more pace now lol.

Heres some pics...

Argh bloody piccys dont fit,another issue to sort by the looks of it

Thats all i have on the blue one so will have to update all the other piccys later.

From where i was though it is now running with the new cam,head and injectors,not perfect but better and safer than it was.
My main issue is with the afm atm but it is drive around able,still bloody annoying though.
It could possibly be because i have had to tension the afm spring to get it to run with the larger injectors.

Heres a small vid of it running with the afm issue and the idle with the new cam...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wnb4yvrzMU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nblfYHuLFms

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3TTVbos7uY&list=UUsvg6ZX6X-ILPOR4VBpX7mQ&index=1

Thats a very clean MK1 dont really see UNOS around much let alone turbo nice car

I should have swapped mine for yours last year, you know before my rear turret went kaput

Unograle wrote:I should have swapped mine for yours last year, you know before my rear turret went kaput

I am taking no responsibility for that,i can clearly recall pointing that dip in the road out to you before hand

That looks real tidy, just shows it doesn't take too much to make a standard Uno look good

Well from where I left off…

Had been driving it for a few months as it was and then decided to take it off the road,to finish it as not much was getting done while I was using it.
Repaired hole in wheel well

Painted boot floor and home made strut brace

Repaired turrets


Repaired section on sill and stonechipped and painted

Made a start on the underside using a mix of synthetic tractor paints lol

Before being stripped

Had a good t-cut


Cleaning, removing oil waxoil and treating rust spots






Surprising the amount fiat missed


















No paint on the spots from the repaired quarter!

As the underside was so good I only decided to touch it up and redo the arches,unfortunatally the stonechip I was using did not wont to set directly on the orginal underseal so I had to prime the areas I wanted to stonechip with red oxide.
I also seamed sealed some areas that I tough could do with it while I was at it,then primed over the sealer.












Then it was on with the stonechip,had some crack here in places where I was rushing along but all was later touched up.






Lastly the top coat using synthetic gloss paint,takes an age to dry but I am really happy with the finish,really tough and I think its also chemical resistant.
I ran out of my special mix blue so had to go black on the arches.

Then it was cleaning and painting all the running gear,subframes etc,all new bushes,brake lines etc through out.













Painted rear strut brace and front floor in 2k paint



Painting various engine parts in 2k paint





Cleaned up washer tank and getting the wiring done and hosing done ready for the engine to go in

Now to the engine,this is the engine from my other thread rebuilt and ready to go in with a few minor tweaks.

















Unknown possibly tipo/uno 1.4 cam 9mm in/ex lift

Stock mk1 vs stage 2 turbo dynamics



















Engine finally in, intercooler clearance,and screamer pipe fail lol














Fuel pump



New fuel hose

Santa pod retro show,ran 14.5’s and made 168bhp on the dyno.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXGdxs2OGLA

Wow thats proper mint! and a lot of hard work

nice fuel pump cover

Thanks mate,still needs a couple of bits of paint work sorting and a bit of rust on a door bottom but then its hopfully done,oh and maybe a clutch and gearbox swap

Well I think this is the last of it to where it is at now.

I decided to change the head as it had a iffy valve guide which I thought I would get away with at the time,but things had changed since I first built it as at the beginning with the other car it started as a knock together and run it project which went pete tong

Anyhow in that time I had also discovered a ported head that the seller of the other car had talked about,I thought he ment it was one of the spare heads that came with the car and not the head on the engine at the time .
This head is in a lot better condition with new valve guides so happy days!

Once the head was off I also started to hatch a plan to try and get it to work on some larger 240cc punto injectors, as my car was always on/over the limit with the stock ones.
It turned out I was a lot further over the limit than I thought, as on closer inspection I found signs of det damage on a couple of the fire rings on the head gasket .
Luckly the damage was just limited to the gasket, but just shows how much I was pushing my luck,I knew it was lean but once the afr gauge was out of the car and see no evil hear no evil and all that I pushed it abit further than I should of .
Also from my first uno years back I was well and truly over its limits so part of me was just think my old car did not blow up (well it did once (my fault))and showed no signs of det when stripped so this one will be ok with less boost….wrong

Anyhow around the same time when sorting the parts I was going to use in the rebuild I happened to feel my cam and to my shock number 1 and 3 exhaust lobes were showing signs of wear even only after just 5k+ miles!
This is a completely different thread as to why this could of happened,but at the end of it I needed to sort it out .

I spent untold hours looking into camshafts uprated and standard ones, and also looking closer into the spec of the turbo I was using to try and work out what would suit me best,especially as I was planning on using the larger injectors.
Infact I was praying I could get away with the larger injectors at this point, as going back to the stock injector would mean in a very de tuned state to avoid what was happening before .

Anyhow I thought I had managed to grasp a reasonable understanding of cams and pretty much made up my mind on what I wanted and what i though would work best.
It was only the night before I was ment to pick up the cam that I relized all this quoted duration stuff was not how I thought it was,by this time I was almost to fed up to care lol and just wanted to get on so I just went with it and put my trust in the manufactuer.

At this time I had also been looking into why camshafts can wear like mine did, as I obviously did not want it to happen again.
There are so many reasons for this, but in the end I basicly came up with a plan and so far so good, I think
I will post in another thread at some point but basicly its not to cut corners (who me ),new shims or at the very least flip the old ones if unused on one side,oil choice,lube and a good cam bedding in session.

Next up was the cam timing,this was a headache,basicly I was trying to cut a corner
It was a fair way off to what it should have been according to the kent cam specs,could be many reason for this from head/block thickness,how true you tdc is on the crank etc or could even be due to that the cam is designed for a mk2 uno or punto gt which uses a different toothed cam pulley?

Anyhow after trying to get it right by redrilling a hole in a standard pulley I gave up and went back to kent cams and brought a verneir pulley.
Its possible but its so fine to get exactly right,I think you are working in a 8.57degree window on the stock pulley and to drill the center of the hole spot on especially in the smaller middle part of the pulley is very hard indeed.
You could elongate the hole to get it right but even I was not happy to do that

Once all timed up and happy and after much debating with unograle to which way the tensioner should go it was time to take it for a drive.

First impressions were hazey and the first run up the road was on stock injectors with a bodged throttle cable,basicly though on the stock injectors it was now getting dodgy lean by 4k!
At this point I am proper stressing as to getting these larger injectors to work!

All seems well though at the moment,not perfect by a long shot but a lot better/safer than the stock ones,it still goes lean but at about 6.5k now but no where near like before.
I will up date another time as to the rough afr’s its running and the small issue I have with the afm but that can wait.

Heres is a few piccys, and below is what i make of the changes that the cam and head have made .

I have had it out again tonight and I am pretty impressed tbh,it denfinataly feels different but in a good way,seems to gain speed a lot more effortlessly now,I am now just praying it don’t go pop

Head gasket damage,was not blowing or anything.

Kent cam (left) vs stock mk1

Inlet


Exhaust


Pulley


701 beige Injectors modified and using stock mk1 pintle caps


T3 style 1 bar actuator stolen from the gtir

Ported head

I have held back abit to give my conclusion on this cam and head swap as tbh I was still unsure in my own mind,my opinion may even change again yet

Trouble is I was testing it in bad weather and wet roads and between the injector swap and trying to setup the fuelling,boost,watch all the gauges and most importantly not crashing I was not really getting a chance to get a good feel for it.

First impressions were that maybe something was missing,it certainly does not feel the same as before but that was to be expected really.
I Was only doing 3rd and 4th gear pulls at this time as 2nd was/is unusable in the wet,and needed the higher gears to sort the fuelling which I will come to at a later date.

Anyhow I have had it out tonight with the dryer roads and given it a good beating,so the conclusion..

It idles like crap but in a cammed way, but to the untrained ear/non petrol head they would look at you car and think somethings broke/wrong

Me I am getting used to it and have grow to quite like it,its cool to hear as well as feel something different is going on under the bonnet .
For some one looking for a smooth idle I don’t think this cam is for them,from a thread I have on puntosports this is considered normal for the kent cam.

http://www.puntosports.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?129155-Kent-cam-idle

If its worse on the lower 1301cc mk1 I don’t know,but leighs mini from tc also has this cam and idles pretty much the same and I think that’s a 1372cc?

Its surprising really as on paper this is quite a mild cam and quoted as a sports cam,I also dialled in my cam to kents specs with a vernier which I checked 7 odds times with all result within 1crank degree of each other so I am pretty certain the cam timing is correct.
So if you want a smooth idle I would look elsewhere.

Here is how it idles…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wnb4yvrzMU&list=UUsvg6ZX6X-ILPOR4VBpX7mQ&index=3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nblfYHuLFms&list=UUsvg6ZX6X-ILPOR4VBpX7mQ&index=2

Then from the off and early testing I felt it had lost some off boost performance, and this is true and also to be expected to some degree,how much of this is due to the different head I am using I don’t know though.
It just feels slightly flatter and less responsive to throttle inputs if you know what I mean.

Now on boost,its worth noting here that I am proberly running 2psi more boost ,now running 20psi.

At first possibly due to the difference in off boost performance I was thinking that it was feeling maybe like it was spooling later,tbh I really don’t think this is the case and its still on full boost by about 3k,if it has changed it is very minimal indeed.
It does however come on boost different than before I think,before it used to maybe feel abit more snappy and possibly give you that boost kick feeling abit more.
Now at 3k it kicks in abit smoother with not quite the same snap as before I don’t think.

Once on boost and up to maybe 3.5-3.7k it turns into a low down torquey grunt sort of pull,where as before it would sort of peak with the initial 3k boost hit then settle into a solid grunty/torquey pull.

Once at around 3.7- 4k you really start to feel the difference,the pull noticeably changes and the engine really starts to feel free and comes alive pulling a lot harder than before,before it would still be pulling the same with its soild feeling torquey pull.

After 4k the kent just feels like it continues to pull in a smooth extremely grunty fashion all the way to the 6.5-7k revs I am using,before by 5-5.5k it would noticably be starting to lose its soild pull and feel like you are working the engine hard.

I think it even sounds abit different,before in the high revs the engine would have lost it mid range torquey sound and you could/would sort of know/feel/hear that you where revving it high and working it hard.
Now its a lot less harch in the high revs and pulls with the same sort of grunty sound all the way through, with out giving you the same feeling like you beating on it or working it hard.
It almost feels and sounds like it’s a slightly larger cc engine if you get what I mean,before it would sort of be whiney or you would feel that it was a 1300cc revving high.

Hard to explain tbh but I am sure it feels different,this is what was thowing me off abit at the start I think.
Before you could really feel it, in that it would hit hard pull solid then tail off,now its all a lot more smoother,kicks in smoother and then pulls consistently harder with a torquer feeling all the way into the high revs.

At first I was maybe feeling that it had lost some of its character,but after the beating tonight it feels a lot better imo.
Though the gears feels a lot better as when driving hard it drops back into the high revs on gear changes and pulls noticeably harder than before,before like I say you knew you was beating it, now it just grunts and pulls consistently hard.

Well that’s it, obviously there are a lot of variables here as my car is running a different turbo than stock with abit more boost and also the ported head was changed at the same time.
It was also not running a stock cam to start with but an unknown most proberly tipo cam,the cam was pretty similar to a stock mk1 cam but had 9mm lift instead of the the stock 8mm lift.
Also the fuelling maybe playing apart in all this as before it was lean in the high revs where as now its slightly better.

Overall though and atm I would give it a thumbs up,although its changed the characteristics of the car abit its still perfectly drivable at low speeds and feels good imo,the main thing is proberly the rough idle for some.

If its much faster or gained much bhp its hard to tell,it certainly feels it in the high revs, and by the dry mouth and flushed face after a b road blast earily I would proberly say yes,mind you I am a pussy .
I would say for sure the torque has definatally improved though.

This post may have to be edited due to the excessive use of the word grunty

Well i manged to get a couple of small clips of how its running since the changes,trouble is it all went tits up with the camara and was to dark really to be filming .

The quality is absolutly terrible,my worst yet :lol:and had to get youtube to enhance the brightness as it was to dark to see anything before really

Test performed on a private road

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPaP355BDFo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXt3T7ZlVHM

excellant, keep it it up

did you manage to get it so it doesnt run lean in the high rpms?

Sadly no,infact i have dropped my limiter to 6500rpm in an effort to run it abit safer this time,but even at 6.5k its still to lean to be classed as safe tbh.

It is however 10 times better than it was,before it was infact abit more than just dodgy lean and was actually stupid lean as can be seen by my headgasket i think i was lucky i did not melt the pistons

As above though,once the afr gauge was out and "see no evil hear no evil"and that it felt like it was running good dont mean its alright
I was also going from my first uno abit aswell and the abuse it took,and just thought this one feels ok on less boost and the old one was ok and did not blow up,wrong...

I was just reading though an old post i done on turbo124...

Quote

So to the running lean,as soon as I get near 5-6k+ (around the same revs that the boost creeps at)in any gear it starts leaning out to 13-14-15 and even 16 afr I have seen!

That just reads trouble

I knew it was not right and like i say i pushed my luck due to the above.

Even at 0.9- 1bar boost the thing would still lean up the same so it wernt just a case of running to much boost,although it was proberly a factor

To make matters worse after the head and cam swap and still using the stock injectors the car would now be running dodgy lean by 4k and hitting around 13afr so i was getting worryed at getting the punto ones to work at this point.

Anyhow i am no expert at this as can be seen by my head gasket but my understanding of good on boost fuelling is something like this..

Ideal would be around 11.5-12.1 with 11.5 being on the safe side, no lower than 11 as its getting rich and 12.5 max lean but may be considered to lean on some cars running poor fuel or loads of ignition advance.

Orginally my car was something like a quick 10.5 to 10.8 dip coming on boost under heavy load to a good 11.6 on boost until around 5k then it would start to lean rapidly and probely hit 13-14's by 5.7-6k and just got worse from there very quickly,but i choose to ignore this once the guage was out as it felt ok

Now with the punto injectors heavy load low revs coming on boost it will dip as low as 10.3 then to low 11's on boost at 3k ish and from there it will progressivly get leaner the higher the revs.
I think around 11.5 at about 4k leaning to 11.8-12 by around 5.5k then 6k 12.3-12.5 and 6.5k 13-13.1 7k 13.5+

13 is abit dodgy still tbh but as can be seen alot better than it was lol ,but i have dropped the limiter in a small effort to help it,once again i am going on faith abit to that it wont blow up but i think my chances are alot better this time,i hope...

I could quite easyly get it with more fuel pressure but it would run way to rich low down and on light cruise,its to rich now really with the 10.3 but that is like loading it up low down in 5th,average is 10.5- 10.8 from just stabbing it, still rich but wont hurt it i dont think.

I am right in the middle of it atm imo at keeping it sensible though out the rev range.
What i had read about the unos mapping is pretty much spot on i think,i think it runs more fuel/ abit rich coming on boost and around max torque 3-3.5k then levels/leans out abit and then starts leaning the fuelling after 5k so i have had to work around this.

Its not completly without its problems though,my afm seems to have some funky assed issues where it gets the a wiggle on and will hang there and run rich
Not sure why tbh but it obviosly connected to adjusting the afm spring tension,must/may be some frequency imbalence or something with the in coming air and spring tension.
The spring dont feel excessivly tight imo and is only around 9-10 teeth tighter than stock,i may try a larger inlet pipe,not sure yet.

The cam may also be connected to it but am unsure atm,i know the idle is a bit lopey with the cam and it makes slightly less vacuum than it used to,god knows

This problem can basicly stop it coming back to idle properly and make the revs hang at 1.5kish.
Its alot worse with a sealed system,ie no open bleed valve,i was trying to use a dawes device mbc which is sort of sealed with not bleeding the air to control the boost.
This is good for my idle afr and will hold a spot on 14.7 afr when idling and also at off boost cruise,trouble is the above and the fact that this dawes mbc dont work at all well on my car,infact its bloody crap at controlling my boost and i have tryed alsorts,god knows why.

So back to the good old bleed valve,this improves the afm issues loads but is due to the fact as its basicly acting as a vacuum leak in the inlet pipe at idle,i can feel it sucking air when idleing.
The down side to this is that it then makes it run a pretty lean 15-17+afr idle where its sucking air and also makes the cam lope sound worse.
Then on light off boost cruise it seems to make it run slightly richer at around 13.5-13.7 which aint bad but 14.7 was better lol
It does seem to control the boost real well though,perfect 19-20psi all the way through with maybe a tiny bit of creep right up top.

Here is the afm issue,this is with the dawes mbc...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3TTVbos7uY&list=UUsvg6ZX6X-ILPOR4VBpX7mQ&index=3

Part throttle and part throttle on bosst seem ok,which i think can be anywhere from high 12's to high 11;s depending on boost throttle etc
Its proberly alround a little bit rich to be fair up until 6k-6.5k but is safe up until then and alot better than before imo.

I do miss the revs abit if i am honest though as i like beating a car but really the only place i miss it the most is in second,it reasonably low geared and i find that 2nd is the only gear where i feel i could get a better jump to the next gear from more revs.
It still good imo but feels it could be quicker with a few more revs there,3rd to 4th is great and 4th to 5th is good aswell,if anything 5th could be slightly taller.
I am happy where i am but i will proberly be going top change at some point so am wondering what that will do.
Not looked into it yet but am hoping the gearing might be slightly longer,not sure as i say i am quite happy,hope the top change dont change it to much,.

Overall though i am really happy with it atm, if it dont blow up the cam has made a real big difference imo,the more i drive it the more i like it .

The idle is also certainly lumpy but i have grown to like it,the only thing that has proberly changed for the worse is it can also be abit rough from off idle to maybe 1750rpm or so/very light low rev cruising.
Not to much of a problem really but it dont have the feeling that you could pull away in any gear like it used to if you get what i mean lol,and you can sort of feel that it would be jerky if you tryed ,but this is to be expected i surpose.

Though the revs though its great imo,i think it even sounds different/better but if that in my head i dont know lol

So thats it and happy days!
Well other than other issues i have/had with leaks and more interestingly a helicoiled plug hole running a spark plug to hot but that for another day to update

And just for future reference mainly for me incase i forget its running around 2.5-2.6 bar base fuel pressure and 9-10 teeth on the afm.

That shell is incredibly clean. Very nicely done too.

Ok quick update.

Silicone and cork sump gasket was am epic fail so i ended up buying a rubber one from ebay.
The rubber jobby is alot better for torqueing up and overall alot better than the cork shite, although i do still have a bloody leak at the front corner .

Its not in the joins that you glue but just around the corner abit,hoping that it will be 3rd time lucky though .
When i do it again at some point i will have a better check of my sump for flatness, but getting hacked of with it though tbh .

Couple of new bits, one being the ebay rad hoses from the other thread and i have also made myself a larger intake pipe.

The plan behind the intake pipe was to see if it would cure my afm wobble problem but unfortunataly it aint
Only driven it once since and i think its pretty much still the same,possibly slightly better, not 100% just sure yet.

Looks like i am proberly going to have to live with it though,its pretty easy to drive around really but is still bloody annoying none the less, especially as i dont completly know what is causing it

The intake pipe also did not come out quite how i envisioned .

The bend at the top of the stock pipe is neither a 45 or 90 degree but somewhere in the middle.
This made it tricky to get it to fit right especially as its tight for space down there,which is obviosly less than an ideal situation

The top 45degree bend that i used ended up looking abit angled ,but other than that its in there and fits pretty well considering.

I was alittle concerned about it imploding lol, but it seems fine tbh.
It has a alloy pipe down most of it spine so it only the ends to worry about, i think the afm and filter are free flowing enough so dont think it will be a problem.

The original pipe is 60mm off the afm then drops straight down to 45mm,i have gone for 60mm all the way then down to 45mm at the turbo.
Dont really think its much of a power adder but was fitted mainly to see if it would cure the afm,which it did not
Anyhow it will be staying,if anything i may have gained abit more induction noise

looks good mate what you done with the breather pipe do you fancy selling the standard intake pipe as need one for mine as its split

those pipes do look good mate

Well a quick update,with some being good and some being bad.

First up is i managed to get the uno back on a dyno again, and if i am honest i would have to say i was a little disapointed

The car made pretty much the same power if not a little less than it did before!

It was also not making as much boost as i though and is still apparentally only making around 18psi-18.5psi which is pretty much the same as i was told it was making when i had the first dyno run at santa pod,even though my gauge says different.

The afr graph was also not as i expected, but i have a feeling that his gauge may have been off as others mentioned this aswell on the day,it says i was under 10's until 5100rpm which is not even close to what mine reads.

I am not going to moan to much because i could go on for hours although i do have my douts on both the dynos that i have run on

I am not douting the over all power figures to much but on the first dyno at santa pod the bhp and torque did not cross at 5252rpm like it should of and the more recent dyno which tbh i have alot more faith in (other than the afr graph) i still have a sneaky feeling the rpm scaling on the run was out.

Like i say i could go on forever here but at the end of the day i am more than happy with how the car runs and tbh its not often i would say that about one of my cars
Also imo i would swear its faster now than it was,also the mates i have taken in it feel the same,but as above deep down i am happy so am not to concerned about the fiqures.

Santa pod graph is here...

http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=398130&page=19



And the latest one can be found in this thread at the bottom of the graphs...

http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=446999

The latest one makes it look laggy as hell, and you also may notice that the power was made at above 6500rpm where my limiter is set which is also what my rev counter reads to when on the limiter at 6500rpm,the car did not hit the rev limiter on the runs and imo was not that close to hitting it either.

I will also try and post up the boost graph at some point but thats saying i am hitting full boost above 4k,infact 4100-4500rpm full boost,i know the dyno will read a little later than what you see on the road but in 4th i am on full boost at 3k-3.2k at the very latest.

You could possibly point at the cam moving everything to the right but once again which is just my opinion i think the rev scaling on the dyno was possibly around 650rpm+ out.

Anyhow i said i was not going to moan

Theres a couple of pics in this thread...
http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=441160&page=16
http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=441160&page=17


Then on the way home i got into a jingle with a scooby,not really played with much if i am honest so far and after the dissapointing dyno i though lets have it

Was doing really well, infact it was not going no where until a rather harsh 3rd to 4th change and my clutch started slipping,i was still hanging on but my clutch wernt

Long story short my clutch is now fooked,it will slip bad most times coming on boost in 3rd,4th and 5th
It was only just hanging on before and would slip a tiny bit now and again with gentaler gear changes,driving it hard between gears has finished it off.

I am now needing to look into a punto gt clutch and flywheel swap and need to find out if i will need to change the starter aswell?

Then to the good news

It passed its mot

It has also been doing 80+ odd mile a day this last week and has been faultless other than the clutch,it always brings a smile to my face getting into it and driving it home
Cant say the same about the mpg i have been getting though which is proberly around 25-30 at best,i struggle to keep it off boost on the motorway at 70 which is killing it i think where its abit richer than the norm,saying that i dont think it done much better before the injector swap.
Bloody fuel prices aswell,i managed to get something like £60 of vpower in it the other day and it only has a 42liter tank i think ,mind you it was on the light.

do you plan on doing anything else for more power?

you dont need to change the starter motor when fitting the pgt clutch